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28-Mar-2019 11:55

In the late eighteenth century English setting above, these 'funnels' or 'cornucopias' are served with diablotins (an early chocolate sweet covered in comfits), apricot knots and spice biscuits.

Wafer cones are first mentioned in Bernard Claremont's (Newcastle: 1770).

(Related: How To Avoid Emotional Investing) In 1593 tulips were brought from Turkey and introduced to the Dutch.

The novelty of the new flower made it widely sought after and therefore fairly pricey.

The spicy comfits were intended as stomach settlers' to calm the royal digestion, though like both hippocras and wafers they later became luxurious treats consumed at all manner of celebratory occasions by those who could afford them. Made from 100% chocolate ground on a matate, they tend to melt very easily in the fingers.

This is probably why they were coated with nonpareil comfits, which acted as a kind of thermal barrier, keeping the fingers clean.

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Flavoured with bergamot (left) and barberry (right) they were made from recipes written by the Georgian confectioner Frederick Nutt (1789). These delicious wafers were made by anointing wafer paper (similar to modern rice paper) with a mixture of egg white and citrus juice and then allowing the heat of a cool oven to curl them round a stick. The finished result is the lightest and most delicious wafer ever eaten. The little cones around the base of the pudding are filled with pineapple ice cream.

Charles Elmé Francatelli, to Queen Victoria and first cookery author to publish a recipe which featured ice cream cornets.



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